Flickr.com user c.a. muller

It seems one of my missions in the beauty industry has become to defend parabens and set the record straight. Perhaps it is because I unapologetically use them in my skin care products Alchimie Forever. Perhaps it is because I enjoy reading the scientific data on the topic. Or perhaps it is because I don’t mind taking the politically incorrect and unpopular view on the topic, as paraben free is a popular buzz word and trend in cosmetics today. In any case, I have written a number of scientific papers on parabens, and am writing my first blog post about it exclusively for Beautyfix.

Parabens are the preservatives most commonly used in cosmetics, foods, and drugs. These molecules are used in over 22,000 cosmetics as preservatives in concentrations up to 0.8% (mixtures of parabens) or up to 0.4% (single paraben). The group includes Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, and Benzylparaben. Parabens have been the subject of numerous studies that have established not only their broad spectrum of action against numerous micro-organisms, but also their efficacy, stability, and their lack of side effects.

In the late 1990s, several studies suggested that parabens had an oestrogenic activity. Then, in 2004, English researchers detected traces of parabens in breast tumour tissue samples. The media seized the subject and widely diffused the news: parabens used in cosmetics, most notably in deodorants, could cause breast cancer. Hence the paraben controversy began. As a result, numerous cosmetic companies have altered their product formulae, replacing parabens with alternate preservative systems. Parabens were the ingredient that began the trend of fear marketing in beauty products, or “free of” marketing.

Let’s look at the facts and set the record straight:

1. As stated above, the paraben controversy and the idea they cause breast cancer rests on one single medical study that was published in 2004. The methodology of that study, however, was flawed: parabens were indeed detected in cancerous breast tissue samples; however parabens were also detected in the control group (organic matter with no trace of cancer). As there were parabens in both the cancer tissue and the control, it is not accurate to conclude that parabens cause breast cancer. The American Cancer Society claims that the “studies have not shown any direct link between parabens and any health problems, including breast cancer.”

2. There has been no further published study in the 5 years since that initial study confirming parabens’ role in breast cancer.

3. Parabens are approved by all of the cosmetic regulatory bodies including the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). This is not the case, for example, with hydroquinone, which is banned by the European equivalent of FDA.

4. Parabens have an extremely low skin sensitivity factor, meaning that very few people are allergic or have skin irritation to parabens. This is not the case with some of the paraben alternatives, including essential oils, which are very sensitizing and appear on the European list of top allergens.

5. Finally parabens have the broadest spectrum of action on bacteria, yeast, and mold, meaning they are effective on almost all. This again is not the case of paraben alternatives, whether natural or synthetic.

Of course from a commercial perspective, manufacturers may wish to replace parabens because consumers are demanding products without parabens (even if for the wrong reasons). Products without parabens enable manufacturers to avoid consumer questions and avoid having to set the record straight. But commercial decisions should not be made under the false pretense of making products safer when parabens are safe to begin with.

Furthermore, when removing parabens from products it is important to consider what we are replacing parabens with. Indeed, I believe we can all agree that preservatives and anti-bacterial agents play an important role in cosmetics. After all, who wants bacteria in their creams?

Finally, I urge the industry to reconsider the “free of” marketing craze we seem to have embarked on in the last few years. “Paraben-free” claims naturally although inaccurately lead consumers to believe that parabens are “bad.” Same with all of the other “free of” claims we see today.

ABOUT ADA POLLA:

Ada Polla of Alchimie Forever

Ada is the co-creator of skin care brand Alchimie Forever, and a member of the Beautyfix Panel. An expert in cosmetics development, Ada contributes to numerous magazines, and is a frequent guest speaker at leading universities and beauty industry conferences.

Flickr.com user mark sebastian

It’s no secret that smoking is bad for our health, but many people fail to realize how smoking affects the skin. There are many factors that cause wrinkles, and smoking is definitely a culprit. Millions of well-informed people continue to smoke as the health risks they are faced with seem to be way off in the distant future. If you are looking for some motivation to quit smoking now (and the myriad health risks haven’t been enough incentive) think about how it affects your appearance. If you want to prevent wrinkles, put that cigarette down; not only will you look better, but your overall health will improve. Let your vanity help kick you into full-speed quitting gear.

Smoking effects on the skin and the aging process are very real. Even after a short time your skin can start to lose moisture and become chronically dry, as well as being depleted of vital nutrients and antioxidants that keep skin looking healthy and young. Smoking diminishes essential collagen and elastin in your skin too. There are skin care products that can improve collagen and elastin levels in the skin, but despite all of the efficacious beauty products that exist, nothing will reverse the severe damage that smoking causes. Ultimately, prevention is the best cure.

The constant pursing of the lips speeds up the formation of fine lines around the mouth, and the repetitive squinting and shutting of the eyes to avoid smoke exposure adds many more toes to those crow’s feet around them.

The only thing that speeds up aging of the skin more than smoking is sun damage. Smokers in their 30’s generally have as many wrinkles as non-smokers in their 50’s. This is because nicotine affects the way our blood vessels work and cause them to constrict, blocking a lot of the oxygen that is trying to reach your skin. The lack of oxygen on the skin’s surface is what causes the sallow, dull, smoker’s skin.

Quitting smoking is extremely hard, but so is waking up every day and being unsatisfied with your appearance. So if you want to stay looking young and beautiful for as long as possible it is in your best interest to nix the nicotine now!

Here are some helpful tools to help you quit smoking.

When we drift off to slumber land our body is at peace. What you probably don’t realize is that your body is working its magic overnight. It’s trying to refresh, revitalize and keep you looking your best for the next day. Consider sleep as your body’s maintenance time. Sleeping too little can have adverse health effects on your body that can lead to diabetes, heart disease, hypertension, irritability, slower reaction time, slurred speech and tremors. Skin cells regenerate faster at night than during the day and ultimately help your skin look younger.

Lack of sleep causes you to age faster by changing your metabolism and affecting your hormones. The period of deep sleep, or R.E.M., is when people typically have a surge in growth hormones. These increased growth hormones help repair and rebuild tissue like your muscles. Your body’s cells also show increased production and less protein breakdown when you sleep. Proteins are important because they are needed for cell growth to help protect and repair damage from stress and UV rays. It’s not just about how much you sleep (a minimum of 8 hours per night are generally recommended), it’s also about the quality of your sleep. Better quality sleep = younger looking skin overall. Here are some tips for getting a good night’s rest.

Getting enough quality sleep is one of the best natural skin care techniques for looking your best. You can enhance this time by using skin care in the evenings that are rich in anti-oxidants. You will get increased benefits, as the anti-oxidants will stay active on your skin longer while you get your beauty rest. I love using Dreamweaver by Sircuit Skin before bed as an overnight moisturizer. The chamomile in it calms and relaxes my skin for a deep, heavenly sleep. Decleor’s Aroma Night Regenerating cream is also a dream to use. Infused with black orchid and primrose, you’ll awake to renewed and radiant skin.

Flickr User: EF Photography

Sleep deprivation also affects your skin hydration. When you’re not getting enough sleep, the first thing you run to is caffeine. Not so great for your skin! Caffeine exhausts your skin and takes away moisture from your body leaving your skin thirsty. If you’re stuck sleeping only a few hours in a night, take coffee and tea out of your diet and stock up on water. Adding water back into your system will have your skin looking moisturized instead of completely water deprived.  Sleep also acts as a natural moisturizer when you perspire. Usually when you sleep your entire body (including your face) tends to perspire more, giving you a natural skin treatment.

I don’t know about you but not getting sleep makes me a really cranky monster. Not being a morning person to begin with, the last thing I need is to compromise the well-being of my body. Getting my beauty sleep not only helps my human self function better, but I’m happier and less likely to get into a funk of depression. One thing that helps me get my quality beauty rest is having a satin sleep mask. It blocks light so my sleep isn’t disrupted. There are many different eye therapy masks you can also try to rejuvenate your tired eyes. Now take a minute and listen to your body, it’s telling you something. Are you sleep deprived? Are you dehydrated? Are the bags under your eyes so bad that they’re impossible to hide with even the strongest concealer? Get some Z’s.

flickr.com user Angie Torres

Even with the best anti-aging skin care products in the world, keeping your skin hydrated and healthy is almost impossible if you indulge in more than an occasional glass of wine. Many of us may enjoy a cocktail now and then, but moderation is the key. If the nights you go to bed sober are becoming few and far between, you might notice your liver isn’t the only thing that is suffering. Here’s some information about how alcohol affects your skin.

After a few nights of binge drinking, our body is literally sucked dry of all its precious water. If the chronic cotton mouth isn’t bad enough, our skin beginning to resemble the cracked sandy floor of the Sahara should instill some fear in us. Over time, with regular boozing, dry itchy skin is the least of our troubles; there are many things that can go haywire and ruin any beauty routine.

Ever heard the saying “you are what you eat”? Well in the case of red wine, it is all too literal. One glass a day can keep the heart attacks away, but more than that and you will start to develop a burgundy hue, that over time may become permanent. All alcohol causes the blood vessels in the skin to dilate and eventually they will stay that way. The condition called telangiectasias is the chronic dilation of the capillaries, leaving your face constantly flushed. Excessive drinking also worsens acne and rosacea, so the combination of all three could leave you looking like a ripe tomato.

Red is not the only color that your skin can turn as a warning sign that you might be hitting the bars a bit too often. Alcohol depletes the body of Vitamin A, which is an essential antioxidant that helps keep the skin looking and feeling healthy and supple. When the body is low in Vitamin A the skin can look grey or yellow and very dull. Dark circles under the eyes usually accompany this condition, making the person look even more tired than they already are.

It’s easy to rationalize when you are young that one more drink can’t hurt and you will never look like your old Aunt Mildred who was never caught without her whiskey and water. But the effects of binge drinking are real, and it is smart to put yourself in check and detox for a while if you notice you are hitting up the clubs more than a few times a month.

Women aren’t the only ones with flaws and blemishes. Men aren’t immune to this and usually, their dark circles are more prominent. To fix this, a men’s makeup easy fix is to use a light reflecting concealer for dark circles. A pen-like concealer with an application brush is usually the easiest. Start at the darkest part of the eye and work your way out and blend. If you’re caking it on too much, you’ll be able to see the line of difference, so the important part is less is more.

Guy liner has been seen around on the peepers of Pete Wentz, Joel Madden, Brett Michaels, Axel Rose and many musicians. The latest young star to make headlines is the glamazon Adam Lambert. He’s definitely coining the guy liner with his publicity and daring look. This trend can be taken to many different degrees. Just as you can create heavy vertical and horizontal lines on your eyes, a little guy liner helps make his eyes stand out and pop. Instead of lining the top of the eyelid, lining underneath the eye adds contrast and definition. You can use any eye pencil, but the men will generally like the more masculine looking eye liners.

Flickr User: Bricehardelin

Eyebrows are always an important part of the face. Not only is it framing your face, but no one likes to see caterpillars over anyone’s eyes – especially bushy man-brows. Thankfully, more and more men are going to get their eyebrows done and we couldn’t be happier to see this trend. Eyebrow waxing, tweezing and threading are methods that can be done for a quick clean up of his eyebrows. Rest assured we’re not talking about getting those pencil thin brows for men. It’s nice to just get them a little cleaned up, and get rid of the unibrow. Another trick he can use is trimming them and brushing them to keep them tame. It’s just like brushing your hair or in this case, the mustache. Good grooming is the key to looking sharp.

For me, these trends are not only fun for him to play with but it’ll boost his confidence too. Instead of being a little afraid when we see a man with eyeliner, embrace it. We have to remember that throughout the years, (thousands of years) men have been wearing and loving makeup. Who knows, your man could look a little sexier with some eyeliner on. Let him play with your makeup kit, this trend isn’t go anywhere. Just don’t let him take it too far towards a drag look.

flickr.com user STYLEMOM

Fashion week is perhaps the most anticipated time of year for all fashion and beauty Junkies, and this year has proved to be as successful and wild as ever. From vintage inspired glam to 90’s grunge, all sorts of fashion and beauty trends are popping up on the runways making for an exciting and eclectic season.

With lace being one of the hottest materials of the current and upcoming months, it only makes sense that lace nails would be the obvious next step in beauty.  Taking inspiration from the delicate and sensual fabric, models have been spotted strutting down the runway with lacey printed nails. Although they have met mixed reviews, they are an interesting spin on nail art, and a pretty cool trend to try out. Finding a nail salon that will do it might prove a bit difficult, so your best bet is to buy some very thin lace and cut it to your nail shape and lay it over your freshly polished nails. Let it dry and lacquer them over with a thick coat of quick drying top coat and voila! Your very own runway inspired lace nails.

Issac Mizrahi went with what seems to be the it trend this year, aiming for a 90’s inspired all natural/grunge look. He sent his models down the catwalk with slept on hair and nothing but pale foundation and lip gloss, creating the message, “It’s all about the clothes.”

Others, like Jeremy Scott, didn’t play it so safe, and got a little eyeliner happy. He took winged eyeliner to a whole new level with his triple stripe wing extending to the temple. It might not be something that would go over too well at your local coffee house, but it added some spice to his show.

Weirdly enough, Nanette Lepore fell right in the middle of the two extremes of natural makeup and over the top makeup. Her models were gorgeously glamorous with subtly defined eyes and berry bright lips. This might be the only ready to wear collection complete with ready to wear makeup.

Over all, there isn’t really one trend that is being seen over and over, the mixture of drastically different looks is what makes fashion week so exciting, and with all designers fighting for the brightest place under the spotlight, there are plenty of crazy and beautiful looks to inspire you every day.

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Both trends are reminiscent of the nineties. Remember (if you’re old enough) Yves Saint Laurent’s almost-black lipstick and Chanel’s Vamp? Dark lips were all the rage, although not for the weak of heart. But this time around the trend is a bit more romantic, and with a bit of sparkle. Edward Cullen would approve.

According to Sean, “the Rachel” is back too. (The hairstyle made famous by Jennifer Aniston’s character from the hit show Friends.) Put on your old ripped jeans, throw on a sequined jacket and give yourself a nice full blowout and you’re good to go.

So, to recap – it’s all about dark lips, and full hair. Rock on.

Which will you be rocking – a Glampire or Glunge look?

Bad Beauty Habit #1 – Sunbathing and not using SPF

In our lifetime we’ve all taken some time in the sun to get that bronzy glow. It makes you look healthier and it’s easy to love getting that vitamin D. Sunbathing can lead to cancer so the trick here is to not do it. Never use tanning beds, and when you are in the sun use SPF. An easy way to remember is by using products that have SPF already in it. There are moisturizers like Coola’s Organic Moisturizing Suncare Sport 45, that will give you lasting coverage and moisture throughout the day. Using makeup containing SPF is also an easy trick. Hourglass has a lightweight liquid foundation with SPF 15 that feels like velvet on your skin. One thing that has helped me keep up with my sun protection is keeping a mineral SPF brush in my purse. That way, it’s always with me and I have no excuses not to use it. I like the Colorescience  Sunforgettable Brush – it gives me the SPF I need plus an added shimmer as an option.

Bad Beauty Habit #2 – Sleeping and working out with makeup on

This is the one that most women have a lot of trouble with. A lot of times we are so busy, that by the end of the night we forget to take the time to remove the icing from the cake. The next morning, we wake up with obnoxious raccoon eyes and smudges on our pillow. Sleeping with makeup on not only makes us look like the bride of Frankenstein in the morning, but it’s bad for our skin. This can increase the speed of the aging process and is a harboring unit for bacteria. How can we have gorgeous skin when there’s old makeup trapped in our pores? Same thing goes for working out with makeup on. As you’re sweating, your pores are opening up and trying to secrete sweat.  If you’ve got makeup on your sweat can get trapped in your pores and cause unnecessary breakouts. We all want to look our best all the time, but there’s nothing worse than seeing a girl with caked up makeup on at the gym. The best solution for this is to use cleansing wipes before bed or working out. They are easy to use and work well when you’re on the go. Jemma Kidd’s cleansing wipes are antioxidant rich, alcohol free, and come in cute packaging you won’t be embarrassed to put in your purse or car.

Source: Flickr user Bonnie BonBon

Bad Beauty Habit #3 – Squinting

The sun can be brutal to more than our skin – what about our precious eyes? It may seem simple, and so many people use sunglasses, but there’s a shocking number of women that don’t. Even if it’s cloudy, the haze can still make you squint. Excessive squinting can cause wrinkles, and fast. We spend so much time on anti-aging and preventing fine lines and crow’s feet, why would we want to accelerate the process? Simple solution: Sunglasses! Get a pair anywhere you like! If you’re a designer junkie, grab some Prada sunglasses. If you’re on a tight budget, cheap ones will do just fine. Just be sure that your sunglasses offer the correct protection against UVA and UVB rays. Out of this, your eyes will be at rest and less strained.

Some may not have trouble with these few things, but the majority of women do. The best thing that we can do for our wellness, and ourselves is to be more aware of our actions. Simple steps and prevention is worth a pound of cure. I’d rather be in the percentage of women with beautiful skin, than plagued with unruly wrinkles. These beauty tips will have you one step closer to preventing aging.

What bad beauty habits do you have?

Flickr.com user Ninha Morandini

With age comes great wisdom, but unfortunately wisdom doesn’t come alone; and you might be considering a change in your skin care routine. Every year, another unwelcome candle finds its way to your birthday cake, and another even more unwelcome wrinkle appears on your smiling face. Anti aging skin care can make a huge difference in fighting the visible signs of aging. Cosmetic Surgeon Dr. Chip Cole shares his skin care advice on the best things you can do keep your skin looking as youthful as possible.

Dr. Chip Cole, a quadruple board certified Oculofacial Plastic Surgeon, who specializes in facial rejuvenation and eye and facial surgery, says the secret to slowing down the signs of aging is a three step process:

“Resurface, Rejuvenate and Protect.  Resurfacing your skin with a retinol will help to address and correct sun damaged skin, acne scarring and rough or coarse texture.  More than 90% off the sun damage we attribute to aging is the result of cumulative sun damage. Rejuvenate your skin by using a topical Vitamin C.  This will help reverse much of this sun damage and help protect your skin from further damage as well.  Protect your skin daily with a hydrating sunscreen.  I recommend a minimum of SPF30 (like Canyon Ranch Your Transformation  Protect UVA/UVB SPF 30 Facial Moisturizer) that protects against both UVA and UVB rays.” –Dr. Chip Cole.

There are other paths you can take when you suddenly stop looking forward to birthdays, and realize your youth is behind you. You can accept that you are growing older, and consider each new line on your face a sign of a happy smile-filled life, and stop caring about your appearance, as your best years have passed. Or, you can start caring for your skin in a way you know you should have been since the first time you noticed your lipstick was exploring those fun little lines around your lips. We recommend taking Dr. Cole’s advice on aging gracefully.

Hair styles that look easy and natural are the way to go with men. If it looks like you’ve spent 4 hours curling and crimping your hair, chances are that he’s not going to like it. Playing up your current hairstyle is a cheap and easy way to get what you want. The key thing to think about is; you want it to be touchable and soft. Over working your hair is a no-no so don’t over-think it! Hair styles to consider this Valentine’s Day are:

Source: Flickr user Albert Brendenhann

Short hair styles: If you’ve got the pixie cut, smooth and sleek is the way to go. Blow dry your hair and use a smoothing serum to get the perfect look that exudes confidence.

Shoulder length hair: Soft waves are a sexy trend this spring. Use a medium barrel curling iron to create soft waves from the crown to the ends. You can use a light hair spray for hold, but beware; using too much hair spray will make it crispy. Another great style is the blowout that will blow his mind. If you’ve got layers in your hair, use a round brush to add volume, or hot-rollers to create voluptuous locks that he won’t be able to stay away from.

Long hair styles: You can go two ways with your long locks, sleek and straight or long, heavenly waves. For the straight look, channel your inner Reese Witherspoon, blow dry with a flat brush and use a smoothing serum to tame frizz. Tousled waves require a medium barrel curling iron with a touch of spray. I’ve found that blow drying your hair before trying to get waves; can sometimes make your hair go flat, so air drying your hair can help create natural curl. A great reference for long gorgeous waves is Marisa Miller (who nailed the tousled waves look at the Super Bowl this year), Rachel Bilson or Gisele Bunchen.

Men generally, don’t like a face that has been caked on so accenting your facial features is the best way to go. My beauty advice is to pick one part of your face, like your eyes, lips or cheeks, and sex them up. To get more bang for your buck a lip and cheek stain is a great beauty buy. Tarte has a genius stain that you may use for either your cheeks to make your cheeks delicious or for your lips for that “come-hither” look. Either way, you can use this product over and over again to achieve different looks as a multi-functioning cosmetic. I recommend this in Cloud 9 or Tickled by Tarte for a flirtatious look. I also love Benefit’s Benetint or Lorac’s Sheer Wash lip & cheek tint for a dark, erotic look. If you’re playing up your eyes a risqué smokey eye is best. Bronze eyeliner is a hot trend for spring that can pair well with a romantic smokey look. If you’re playing up your lips, there’s nothing better than an alluring red for Valentine’s day. Duwop’s Pure Venom in Pure Berry do the trick and exude style and sultry to drive your man wild.

Remember ladies, it’s your time to spice it up and shine, so take a little extra in your busy schedule to prepare. After all, getting roses and chocolates has never looked sexier with that pout.

Source: Flickr User Sifone